Tinned octopus is the secret to this cozy, aromatic weeknight ragu. The cooked octopus is already tender and ready to eat, so you don’t have to simmer your sauce for hours. A little bit of heat enhances the mild sweetness of this pantry staple and the flavorful olive oil from the tin imbues every bite of this pasta. This sauce has a subtle kick from Calabrian chiles, but if you’re craving a little more heat then feel free to add more.

Serves 4 | Recipe by Julia Heffelfinger

INGREDIENTS

• ¼ cup olive oil
• 1 yellow onion, finely chopped
• 1 small fennel bulb, finely chopped, plus fennel fronds for garnish (optional)
• 1 medium carrot, finely chopped
• 1 medium celery stalk, finely chopped
• Kosher salt and pepper
• ⅓ cup tomato paste
• 4 cloves of garlic, minced
• 1 Tablespoon finely chopped Calabrian chiles or 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
• 1 cup dry red wine 
• One 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes
• 1 large sprig rosemary
• ½ cup panko breadcrumbs
• 1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest, plus more for garnish (optional)
• Three 4-ounce tins Island Creek x Mariscadora Octopus in Olive Oil
• 1 pound tubular pasta, such as Calamarata

PROCESS

1. In a large Dutch Oven, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the onion, fennel, carrot, and celery and season with salt and pepper. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent and the fennel, carrot, and celery are tender, about 10 minutes. 
2. Stir in the tomato paste, garlic, and calabrian chiles and cook, stirring constantly, until the tomato paste has deepened in color and the garlic is fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and bring to a boil or moderately-high heat. Cook, scraping up any crusty bits on the bottom of the pan, until the wine has reduced slightly, about 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, rosemary, and 1 cup of water.  Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to moderately-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce begins to thicken slightly, 10 to 15 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, in a medium skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the panko and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the breadcrumbs are toasty and golden brown, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper.
4. After the sauce has been cooking for about 15 minutes, add the octopus along with any oil from the tins. Simmer over moderately-low heat, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes more. Discard the rosemary sprig and season with salt and pepper as needed. (While your sauce is simmering, bring a large pot of salted boiling water to a boil.)
5. When your sauce is almost ready to go, add your pasta to the boiling water and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Reserve 1 cup of pasta water, then drain well. 
6. Add the pasta to the ragu and toss to coat. If your sauce is looking a little thick, gradually add pasta water until the pasta is nicely coated with sauce. 
7. Divide the pasta between 4 shallow bowls and sprinkle with the lemony panko. Garnish with more lemon zest and fennel fronds, if desired. Serve right away.